New Stainless Steel stove vent hood installed

May 22, 2015 Comments Off on New Stainless Steel stove vent hood installed

I ordered this stainless steel vent hood for the stove from Overstock. It’s a mid-range hood to replace the solid black one we once had and the SS is to go with the new appliances I plan on putting into the kitchen. The price was good – about $200 with the additional charcoal filters being bought with my Reward points. To get a super nice fan would have been well over $600 and I simply wasn’t going to spend that for this house.

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I didn’t buy from Lowes or Home Depot because I just didn’t like the selection; what I found at those stores looked small and cheap. I relied heavily on reviews because I bought online.

I couldn’t get to hear the fan or see it in person: the noise on low is definitely less than the old fan; when on high the noise is quite obvious but that is pretty true of any fan.

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I have to write that I’m overall very pleased. I like the substantial size of this hood – it makes the whole area appear bigger than what it really is (30″ wide). It has a modern sleek look that doesn’t look as cheap as others in its same price range. I also like that it has two lights and they are located at the front of the unit so they can be easily replaced.

Of course it will look more impressive once the backsplash is done and the rest of the kitchen appliances are in Stainless Steel but at this point it’s baby-steps.

Next up for appliance replacement is the dishwasher, then fridge, and lastly stove as the stove is a great appliance and is being replaced only for looks. But before all those expenses, back to the family room ceiling….

Getting a Beamed Ceiling look for less money and effort

May 13, 2015 Comments Off on Getting a Beamed Ceiling look for less money and effort

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The next step in remodeling the family room was to put molding in the coffered ceiling. A traditionally beamed ceiling would have looked fantastic in our formal living room where ceilings are 10 foot high and there is plenty of light. Not so great in this darker room, where a coffered ceiling makes the ceiling feel lower.

Let’s face it, neither of us wanted to go the expense either that boxed beams would require. Even doing a faux look (like at this blog) would have taken more time and money than we wanted to do.

However, this room lacks definition and with it’s huge coffered ceiling we knew some sort of molding would take it to the next level. The molding we decided upon makes the eye go upward and defines the ceiling but doesn’t lower the ceiling visually. I guess you can call this the poor man’s beamed ceiling look.

Before we begin, we installed recessed ceiling lights, and marked off all the lines for molding with chalklines. The ceiling should was painted the final color before we started this project.

Be aware that white molding looks best against a darker wall color. Here we are using Valspar’s allen + roth Rock ar720 from Lowes; this color is being used throughout the downstairs to make the space look larger (vs. using different colors in each room).

To prep for your project, measure your room and mark on paper where you want your molding to go: even and equally spaced squares work best. Our ceiling dimensions:  135″ x 201″.

You can tell from our rough graph that the squares aren’t perfectly even in their dimensions but the difference is minimal and not noticeable from below. Black lines mark 1×4 placement and red indicates the 1×6 boards.

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Mark out with a chalk line which will be erased or covered by projects end. Take a stud finder and be sure to locate where you can attached to studs in your ceiling. No studs for nailing up boards? We worked around that and will show you how too.

Materials for this project: a saw (we used power miter saw and circular saw), a nail gun and compressor is a must, chalk line, liquid nails (our project took two tubes), finishing nails, toggle bolts to mount in areas without a stud to mount boards (plan a bolt for every 4 feet approx.), paint for your molding, foam paint roller with tray, fine sandpaper block and wood putty. Drop cloths may also be needed; our floor had been removed in anticipation of replacing it.

Lumber for your project: we used white primed MDF boards (1×4 for inside squares and 1×6 for the outer border), in this blog post. Depending on what you want your own project to look like you can finish it off differently – this is just an example of what we did.

For example, the look in this post with no additional trim or crown gives an appearance similar to Board and Batten. However, our next post will show additional trim we used for a second layer.

For this project we started with primed white, MDF boards, because MDF is cheaper and the look of real wood doesn’t matter since we are painting. Because it was primed white, and I’m painting it white, painting went faster. If staining, go with real wood.

Boards were painted twice more to get even coverage and sanded lightly between the first and second coat because sometimes MDF (or any wood) has slight blemishes. If you paint before being mounted it saves a lot of hassle and just means final touch ups.

General Tips:

Before mounting the board up, make sure it is cut on both ends of the board to fit the space. You will want a tight fit – no gaps! This may take adjustment especially if you find that your walls and ceiling are not straight, which is typical of older homes or homes who have settled.

Speaking of which – ceiling molding will not look good up on an uneven, damaged, warped, wavy or crooked ceiling. Go with plaster and paint to repair these types of ceilings/walls.

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You may also have to work around fixtures. We had to cut around this ceiling vent which could not be moved. Also, shown is the corners where we went with mitered edges; other boards (see below) butted end to side.

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We also had to put in  board for the ceiling fan, allowing an area for electrical and hanging of the fan.

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Mounting to ceiling areas with studs: This is the easy part. Using your stud finder, mark the location of studs with painters tape. This helps as a guide for using your nail gun.

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Cut your board to fit, run a line of liquid nails on the back of the board, mount and nail into place. Be aware that liquid nails won’t be strong enough to hold a board in place on their own – nails or bolts are also needed.

You will need a helper on another ladder or step stool, while you finish nailing or screwing in the fasteners. This really is a two person job, not only for holding the other end of the board but to also let you know that the boards are visually lining up.

Mounting to areas without studs: Using our stud finder we found some areas would not have studs where boards would be mounted. This required the use of toggle bolts.

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On a long board we chose two areas to drill spaced out holes (ours was 1/8″) with a countersink hole of about 3/8″. Counter sinking a screw or bolt can be done with a  power tool and a specialty drill bit.

Another way is drill a shallow hole with the large bit (3/8 inch), then switch to the small bit (1/8″) and finish drilling through the board. The large bit leaves a V-shaped depression in the hole, so it is easy to line up the small bit to finish off the hole.

Hold up to the ceiling and mark the ceiling with a pencil or scratch it with a screw tip. Take down the board and drill a larger hole in the ceiling (about 1/2 inch) at your marked areas; the larger hole allows the toggle bolt wings to collapse and push through. On the inside of the ceiling the wings open giving your board support.

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Insert the screw in your board, apply liquid nails in a wavy pattern down the board, and mount. We used our power drill to screw down the bolt. Shorter sections and smaller boards (the 1×4) did fine with only one toggle bolt; our longer sections required two toggle bolts.

Use wood putty to cover holes, lightly sand after it is dry, and touch up with additional paint. At this stage we are finished with the first layer of molding. You can stop here if you wish for a simple board and batten look which would work well with an updated country, farmhouse or home with transitional décor.

Because there is a lower entrance to get into this room and I don’t have a wide angle lens these were the best photos of the ceiling I can could take today. The project looks a lot nicer in person!

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We will be installing additional molding so look for a new post after the next weekend with the details on trimming out your boards with additional molding for a layered and more detailed look.

Retrofitting recessed ceiling lighting in the family room

May 11, 2015 Comments Off on Retrofitting recessed ceiling lighting in the family room

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We have a large family room which is one of those awkward and bland rooms that is a decorating problem child. One of it’s major problems is that it’s often too dark and needs even illumination, so the first major project for this room, working from the ceiling down, is installing recessed ceiling lights.

Before you begin it’s easier to paint the ceiling vs. doing it after installing the lights and future molding. Since the project will have white ceiling molding we went with matching ceiling and wall paint (Valspar’s allen + roth Rock ar720 from Lowes). This color is being used throughout the downstairs to make the space look larger (vs. using different colors in each room).

TIP: if using molding, the more contrast between wall and molding colors the better your end project will look.

Before you begin this type of project, grid it on paper and than check stud locations as well as electrical. We planned on pulling the power for the lights from the ceiling fan which would mean the future replacement fan would have no light. This made it a pretty easy project, electrically speaking.

On our plan here black lines is where molding will be placed; red lines show how the electricity was run.

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In our room, it turns out the ceiling fan was not centrally located, thus measurements had to be adjusted. Depending on the age of your house you may find some surprises like this too.

When choosing your lights, consider: how much room is in your ceiling; the amount of light you want; the type of light; how big a diameter the exposed light ring you want; how tall the can unit for the interior ceiling space; and if it will be on a dimmer (some lights don’t dim).

We needed a low profile canister light so it could fit in within the existing ceiling structure which had no attic access. The light we chose came from Lowes.

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We had a central ceiling fan that had power for a light and a fan. The first thing we did was remove the old fan and from the electric for the fan light, and ran a line of electricity through the ceiling in a grid pattern. The holes we made to run the electrical line will be covered with future molding.

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The 12 box grid we marked out with a line of blue chalk line. You can tap in a headed nail on one end and run the line from it to the other side to easily snap the line. When the project is done, a brush wipes off the chalk line.

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Each of the smaller squares will have a centered light. Make two diagonal chalk lines from corner to corner to make an X in each box. The center cross X will be the location of the recessed can unit.

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You can use a “hole saw bit” that attaches to your power drill to cut out a circle pattern in drywall. This punches out the circle smooth and easy where you can insert your can light. It also helps as access to run your electric without making too many unnecessary holes.

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Most of the electrical wire was easily tucked between structural interior beams (behind the drywall) and the fiberglass battings. However, we did do a half inch notch in four beams at four different locations. If you do that be extremely careful that you do not impact the structural integrity of the beams. If in doubt, ask an expert before proceeding!

Be sure to cut the power from the main box before you wire to the live line. Our 12 recessed lights used Halogen light bulbs and wired to a wall mounted, dimmer switch that we used to replace the old on-off switch for the fan light. When selecting a switch make sure it is rated for the amount of power you plan on hooking it too.

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This project takes a moderate level of knowledge about wiring and electricity. However, if you know enough to wire a ceiling fan you probably know enough to do this project. :) I will be doing better photos of the entire room once the project is complete.

The smaller fixture units are more classy/trendy than the old and larger can lights. Best of all, being on a dimmer we have control – make it bright for visitors or dim for the big movie night.

LOVE THESE LIGHTS!

8 Tips for the best DIY Orange-Oil Dusting Rags

May 4, 2015 Comments Off on 8 Tips for the best DIY Orange-Oil Dusting Rags

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There’s a couple of different versions of this recipe floating around the Pinterest boards. Over the year of making and using these I’ve found a few tricks that I’ll share here.

Oranges or Lemons – the procedure is the same regardless of what citrus you pick. Lemons gives a stronger smell than oranges which are milder. I find it easiest to sit down with a bag of oranges (bought on sale) and just peel and keep the segments back for snacking and the rinds for the cleaning project. If you try to collect as you eat oranges through the week the project drags on forever.

Clean Rags – T-shirt material is ideal as it is thin and you want something that will soak up the cleaning mix. Another option would be microfiber washcloths and I love the price at the Rag Company. If your using microfiber cloths plan on keeping the oil in a dispenser (like a recycled condiment bottle) and squeeze onto the washcloth instead of soaking it (soaking it would take a lot of oil to gain saturation).

Olive Oil – it is not necessary to use the expensive kind. Cheap is fine.

Vinegar – I prefer White Vinegar as it doesn’t have as strong a smell as Apple Cider. If using ACV it will overwhelm the citrus scent, FYI.

Essential Oil – optional for those who like a stronger citrus smell. I’ve added about 1 teaspoon per one batch (as described here). Luckily, citrus essential oils are some of the cheapest EO’s. Orange and Lemon are very affordable.

Containers – I started out using recycled glass spaghetti jars with lids but I’ve switched to quart or gallon sized, Freezer bags as I really like to tuck a baggie of dust rags in my cleaning bucket – one upstairs, one down, for quick access.

Solution:

1 c. water

1/2 c. vinegar

1/4 cup Olive Oil

10 Citrus fruits – trim off for the rinds – they should be dry – not wet! All pulp should be removed.

TIP #1: Cut your rinds into thin strips. This shape is easier to wrap cloth around and to tuck into the bag over the quarter/wedge size.

TIP #2: If orange peels are damp or wet, pat dry, and stick in a low temp (150 degree oven) to dry out for about 10 minutes. Let them cool before using.

TIP #3: Oil and water will continue to separate so whisk your liquids between each rag you are soaking.

TIP #4: If you mix in one large batch and dump in a rag, it will soak up ALL the oil, leaving you only with vinegar and water for the subsequent rags! Get a shallow pan, pour in a quarter cup or less of your mixed/whisked solution and put in a rag to wipe it up. Wring out the rag, wrap up your orange rinds inside and tuck into your plastic bag. Repeat. This way oil is spread evenly throughout your batch of cleaning rags.

TIP #5: Do not put used rags back in with the clean as this brings in contamination and starts mold. From my experience, these should last (unopened/unused) for at least 6 weeks maybe longer.

TIP #6: Once used these rags start to dirty up fast! Rinse in the sink and you can re-use immediately about two more times before there is no more oil in the rag to collect dust.

TIP #7: For best results, wait to use for at last two weeks after setting up. My only problem with these is I go through these very quickly and it takes so much time for them to set up. If you need dusting rags right away skip adding the fruit rinds and just go with the oil and vinegar to use immediately.

TIP #8: When wiping furniture, if you find it leaves too much oily residue to your liking, than go back over with a clean and dry microfiber cloth and next time you make the recipe cut the oil in half.

EXTRA TIP: A week after setting up a batch, doublecheck that nothing is molding. Sometimes despite your best efforts, mold enters and starts to spoil your batch. If caught early you might be able to save the rest by removing the offender.

I prefer these soaked cleaning rags over dusting spray. They work best over flat wooden surfaces like bookshelves, dressers, nightstands, sideboards, dining room tables, bed frames, etc… For my own cleaning routine they really work out for what I clean and how I do it!

My Favorite DIY Glass and Mirror Cleaner

May 3, 2015 Comments Off on My Favorite DIY Glass and Mirror Cleaner

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Most of these DIY cleaners simply don’t work (for example the popular Goo-Gone recipe of cheap oil and baking soda simply is not Goo-Gone and will never be). However, this is one recipe I came across that I’ve tested over the last year that is excellent for cleaning mirrors and glass. I’ve used it to bring a shine to my stove top too.

I mix it up at a gallon at a time in a clean kitty litter jug (with handle and lid properly labeled).

1 gallon of Distilled water (I use distilled because the water at my house is heavy in mineral content)
2 cups of Rubbing Alcohol
2 cups of White Vinegar (you could use Apple Cider but it increases the vinegar smell)

When I’m ready to finalize the mix into spray bottles I put 1 Tablespoon cornstarch to 2 cups of solution. Be sure to shake well before using as the Cornstarch likes to settle.

I also add 10 drops of Essential Oil. Some of my favorite cleaning EO’s include: Pine, Lemon, Lemon Eucalyptus, Orange, Lavender, and Rosemary. Be aware that some Essential Oils are packaged in oil (such as Vanilla and Rose) do not use these – as it will make your final solution oily.

Often most of these ingredients can be found on sale; here is an average cost of raw ingredients:

Distilled water (1 gal.) = .88
Rubbing Alcohol (16 oz) = $3.50
White Vinegar (1 gal.) = $2.50
Cornstarch (16 oz.) = $1.70

Essential Oils range from cheap (Orange at $8 a bottle) to expensive (Lavender at $35 a bottle) so that price is not included. Of course if you don’t use distilled water the price comes down a little more.

Homemade DIY cleanser is $.52 cents (2 cups) versus the same amount in Windex is $1.30. As I’ve gotten older I have found the smell of Windex more pungent. Not sure why that is but if you don’t like the smell of chemicals, going DIY on your cleaning solutions is smart.

I have three bathrooms so I leave a small spray bottle in each bathroom so mirrors can be cleaned whenever I grab a moment instead of searching around for cleaning solution downstairs when I’m upstairs.

Not all DIY cleansers are made equal. I’ve found many of these recipes don’t measure up but this one is easy, quick and effective! Great stuff!

Love this Quickie Steam Mop for hardwood and ceramic floors

April 30, 2015 Comments Off on Love this Quickie Steam Mop for hardwood and ceramic floors

On my quest to get the house into some sort of order – from the shambles it usually looks, the next cleaning tool I bought was a Bissell Powerfresh Clean Mop. There is a Sharp version in this price range, but Bissell got overall better ratings. I especially liked that Bissell fluid container could be re-filled and that it stands upright when not in use (the Sharp does not).

PRICE

It was initially listed cheaper at Target than Bed Bath and Beyond, and it was on a 10% off sale so purchase price was $90 with free shipping. Bissell routinely goes on sale so keep an eye out for deals. Again no freebies on this AD FREE BLOG! :D

This was my first time ordering from the Target website and sorry not impressed. After buying, the only email I received was one telling me I would be told later when it would be shipped so two days later I have only a delivery range of dates and no tracking number. Not cool, Target.

USING IT

This is not a broom or vacuum – floors need to be swept clear of debris for this machine to be effective in cleaning your floors. Also, it does not suck up water like my old Hoover Floormate did although it would be effective on small liquid spills but so would a dishcloth.

It is easy to assemble – takes one screw and you are ready to go.

One thing I liked about this steam mop was I could fill it directly from the sink (or in my case, a distilled water jug). From reading the Sharp reviews you had to Jerry-rig the canister to be able to refill it. This wasn’t something I wanted to bother with doing. Remember, I hate housework and need quick and easy.

Heats up fast! You’ll be ready to go in less than 2 minutes. It has three options on how hot the mop can get – experiment and see what works best on your floor. I use a light or middle setting for my wood floors and use the hottest on the ceramic.

Unlike the Sharp steam mop, this mop can sit upright when not in use, so stores better. Always be sure to turn it off when done to prevent heat damage to the floor where it is sitting.

WATER TANK

I personally love that it uses water – not chemicals – to clean my floor. Distilled water prolongs the life of the machine and the cost is minimal if you compare it to floor cleaner. My area has heavy mineral content in the water, so I definitely want to use distilled water.

There is an option for a scent disc to be put into the mop head but I found it gave minimum scent (if you love heavily scented products like Febreeze or Lysol, this product is not like that) so I doubt I’ll buy that product insert again.

I’ve started using a suggestion on an Amazon review: to one gallon of distilled water I add 1/4 teaspoon of Essential Oil (Lavender, Eucalyptus, Orange, Rosemary, Pine, Tea Tree oils are good ones to try as long as they are not blended in oil – check the label), with 1 Tablespoon of rubbing alcohol. Shake the jug well before pouring into the tank. It should release a nice scent into the air as you clean!

CAUTION: Do no overuse or you could get streaking. Do not use essential oils containing oils like Jojoba (such as found in Vanilla and Rose Essential Oils) or you can clog your machine and streak your floor.

MOP PADS

The mop comes with two cleaning pads which can be washed and reused. One pad is for hardwood floors (100% white) and the other pad is for ceramics or where you want to scrub (it has a blue chevron pattern on the bottom).

I bought two extra pads as this will give me the greatest flexibility in having one clean as I don’t do a white-wash every day and I have over 1,000 square feet of floor I use this on. Be sure to buy the Bissell brand for the correct steam mop type (the Freshmop doesn’t fit the other brands of Bissell’s steam mops). People have complained about Bissell look-alike pads so buy the Bissell brand for the best fit.

When finished do NOT leave the covers on the machine! These become very damp after use and need to dry out or be washed or it develops a mildew smell.

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Remove the cloth, mop head cover and immediately rinse and squeeze until water comes clear. Spray with a Resolve carpet cleaner, and set aside to be tossed in the washer with Oxy Clean. Don’t use bleach. After use, they will never be white again. If this bothers you go back to the Swiffer with disposable mop heads (which I think is like taking a huge step back in technology, like forgoing an oven and using a camp fire to cook).

mop_pad_covers_bissell_steam_mop_new_cleanedThey can pick up a lot of lint so if washing with other items, you might want to tie them up in a pillowcase or use a mesh laundry bag like you find for washing lingerie.

PROS

Very lightweight and easy to use. Would be perfect for someone with disabilities, back issues or someone who is restricted in their ability to move about. Because it is lightweight, I found it easy to take it up and down the stairs.

The cord is crazy long – I was able to do the huge L-shaped area of laundry room, bathroom, kitchen and breakfast room from just one plug in. The cord is not retractable but winds on the exterior of the unit.

The mop head swivels 180 degrees. It makes it fantastic for moving in and around baseboard, cabinets, furniture etc… It even moved around the toilet for me to clean most of that floor! LOVE THIS FEATURE!

The water in the tank goes a long way! I was really pleased at how much floor I got done and even went two sessions before having to refill it.

Floors dry really fast – ceramic floors faster than hardwoods.. It will leave some dampness on the floor and maybe because the water was hot, but the floors dried faster than just traditionally-mopped floors. If you live in a high humidity place it may take longer (but so would mopped floors) to dry.

TIP: On hardwood floors I found it streaking when I had it on the highest steam setting and when the mop head was saturated with water. If you find it streaking, try a fresh mop head cover that is dry and/or go back to the lighest steam setting.

TIP: if you need the floor to dry fast use the lightest steam setting. The higher you go on the steam, the more water that is applied to the floor, the longer it takes to dry, and the more chance of streaking on hardwoods. I had no streaking on ceramics and even at the highest setting, the ceramic dried fast.

CONS

HATE that there is no power-down switch and you have to unplug from the wall to stop the power. HATE, HATE, HATE! Before unplugging, move it back to the original light setting as it does seem to power it down somewhat on the top setting.

Trying to pull out the water tank can be difficult. It fits in snuggly and it can be hard to get enough grip to pull it up and out.

Some people have reported floor streaks after using. Use the lighest steam setting on hardwood floors to reduce or eliminate streaking (see Tip above). Another problem is your mop head cover may just be too wet, especially if you are doing a lot of floor on the heaviest steam/wet setting. Try a fresh pad and return to the lighter steam setting and see if this eliminates the problem.

Overlap the paths of your travel and go with the grain (if doing hardwood floors). Also, if your floor has a product on it (wax, chemical cleaners) it may remove this and cause streaking during the first few cleans.

While this has a carpet feature, I wouldn’t think this would be very effective in cleaning a deep pile rug. Without a scrub brush and a chemical tank, I don’t view this as a rug cleaner despite the water and steam. Might be okay on low pile carpet and rugs.

Overall, on clean-ability, this is a great steam mop to use on a regular (3x or more a week) basis on mildly dirty floors. While it doesn’t “scrub” your floors (so heavily stained floors may need more) I found it a great mop for keeping the kitchen tidy on a daily basis.

Between the Sharp Navigator cordless vacuum and this little baby, the floors have already started looking so much better!

Dealing with Pet Fluff and Hardwood Floors

April 29, 2015 Comments Off on Dealing with Pet Fluff and Hardwood Floors

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After installing the wooden floors downstairs, it became quickly apparent that the fluff from two dogs and three cats was way out of control. If using a broom or dustmop to gather pet fluff you will spend as much time trying to get the dustpan to the trash with all the dust bunnies as you will in sweeping!

From a blog recommendation, I bought a Sharp Navigator Freestyle vacuum from Bed Bath and Beyond with my 20% off coupon for about $86. Yes, I bought it – no freebies for this AD-FREE blog!

USING IT

So far I give this an A+ for daily housework – I’m using it almost every day and definitely every other day.  If you have pets and need something quick to clean hardwoods or ceramics on a daily basis, this is a great choice!

EASY AND QUICK FOR DAILY CLEANS! LOVE IT!

This is pretty easy to assemble with just one screw. It’s CORDLESS and it is LIGHT!

Initially, I gave it about 4 hours to get a complete charge; you will need an area where you can leave it plugged in. It looks like it shuts off the charging unit once the vac is completely charged which is good because if you overcharge these types of batteries you can damage it.

It has two settings: bare floor and carpet. I have used this only on concrete flooring, hardwoods and ceramic. I personally doubt the suction would be strong enough for a deep pile carpet but would probably be okay for low pile carpet and rugs, though I do not consider this to be a hard use vacuum (see below for more details).

What I don’t know yet is how long the filters will last. Also, how hard it’s going to be to find those replacement filters.

PROS:

This is awesome for daily and spot cleans! Just grab, go and vacuum and put away. No bending to plug in, searching for outlets, moving furniture to get to an outlet, or struggling with moving the card as you vacuum. I LOVE IT!

HUGE pluses were cordless and lightweight. Managing a cord is a huge pain in the neck as the cord never allows me to do the room without transferring plugs. Easy to take up the stairs unlike huge clunky vacuums.

Other pros include the handle height which is comfortable for me at 5’5″ and husband 6’2″. Other vacs have too low a handle and hurt hubby’s back after use. I hate short handled brooms!

Bagless so you just open the canister and shake debris out. Emptying the cartridge is a bit tricky until you figure it out. When you push the bottom button in, push down on the tabs that are at the bottom of the canister (they go opposite directions).

Suction and maneuverability is pretty good. I found the hinging of the upright handle/canister area to the floor sweeper to be a little hard until after a few uses when it limbered up. Now it works fine and is easy to maneuver.

CONS:

The biggest issue from reading reviews is that the battery doesn’t retain a charge or isn’t powerful enough to do the job. I’m keeping my receipt for 90 days but so far haven’t had an issue myself. I’m cleaning about 800 square feet of floor space.

Suction is not strong enough to pick up screws, pennies, paperclips – it’s ideal for fluff and dust. This is a daily, pick up quick vacuum not a heavy duty wet-vac.

It doesn’t have any hand tools so you can’t use it to on furniture or baseboards. Do not look at this as you would a regular full-use vacuum. I plan on buying a different vacuum for my upstairs deep pile carpet.

If you run it up to a hard edge, it doesn’t get the suction right up to the edge.

I found trying to clean out the brush of the floor sweeper area a bit difficult to get into. It would be nicer to get in there and fully remove debris like string that isn’t sucking all the way through (you can do it but it isn’t as easy as belt vacuum cleaners).

This is just one of several cleaning tools I plan on buying in the next 60 days. In the future, I’ll be buying a vacuum for the hardwood stairs, a steam mop (for hardwood and ceramic floors), and a new heavy duty, carpet vacuum for the upstairs, carpeted bedrooms.

EDITED TO ADD: My heavy duty carpet vacuum cleaner has died so I ended up trying out this cordless on carpet after all. If your carpet is lightly dirty it can work pretty well!! However, it still doesn’t like big chunks of fluff, dirt, paper bits etc… Yet, I am impressed and being a much lighter vacuum in weight, I will use it for quick clean ups in the bedrooms after all!

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